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Posts from the “Dazed” Category

Black Archives Presents “Stories Untold: The Raymond Boyd Collection”

Posted on June 7, 2021

Craig Mack Live In Chicago, 1994. Photography Raymond Boyd/Michael Ochs Archives via Getty Images

When Notorious B.I.G. dropped “Juicy” in 1995, he took a generation back to their roots with the iconic bars: “It was all a dream / I used to read Word Up! magazine / Salt ‘N’ Pepa and Heavy D up in the limousine”. Long before hip hop went pop, it was an underground scene shaped by local artists like Chicago photographer Raymond Boyd. 

Growing up, Boyd used to page through Black-owned magazines like Ebony and Jet, marveling at pictures of the Jackson 5, Stevie Wonder, and Diana Ross – whose songs were sampled by hip hop artists he would later photograph. Reading their stories, Boyd was enthralled by tales of struggle and triumph against the odds. “It wasn’t so much gossip,” Boyd recalls. “You read about how they grew up, built their careers, artists who inspired them, how they set up their rehearsals and stage performances. That helped me to learn about them.”

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oyd took up photography after his mother gave him a Kodak pocket camera when he graduated high school. Drawn to the local music scene, Boyd frequented local clubs and concerts, making photographs. His enthusiasm caught the eye of Earl Calloway, fine art editor of the Chicago Defender newspaper, who gave Boyd a shot, and helped nurture the young talent into a photojournalist. 

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“Seeing the live shows just blew me away. Being in the pit in front of the stage that close the artists could look right down at you, point, and pose – that was real cool,” says Boyd.  “I also got a chance to sit in front of the artists, listen to them tell their story, get a better understanding of what they went through, and watch how their facial features would change when they talked about how far they’ve come from where they first started. But once the red light goes off on the recorder, the best part of the interview comes.”

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Read the Full Story at Dazed

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Bushwick Bill of Geto Boys performs in Chicago, 1990. Photography Raymond Boyd/Michael Ochs Archives via Getty Images
DJ Mad Mike and rapper Paris at a bookstore in Chicago, 1991 . Photography Raymond Boyd/Michael Ochs Archives via Getty Images

Categories: 1980s, 1990s, Art, Dazed, Music, Photography

Guzman: 90s Girls

Posted on May 27, 2021

Guzman. Total, Total, 1996.

On his first day at the studio in 1983, Constance Hansen remembers asking Russell Peacock to clean the stove. She laughs at the reversal of gender roles and then adds, “It was for a photo shoot. I remember asking Russell what photographers he liked and what he wanted to do and he started talking about riding his bicycle through Europe for six months and sculpture. Meanwhile I was in full commercial mode, working around the clock.”

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A bustling still life photographer, Hansen’s posh client roster included Bergdorf Goodman, Bonwit Teller, Lord & Taylor, and Balducci’s – but things began to change when Peacock began collaborating with her. Paging through the luxurious art book style catalogues for Yohji Yamamoto and Comme des Garçons, inspiration struck. “We thought fashion photography looked like fun, not knowing how difficult it was,” Peacock says.

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After business hours ended, they opened studio to the downtown scene, inviting club icons like Dianne Brill and Marilyn for portraits, styling them in clothes by emerging designers like Marc Jacobs and Isabel Toledo, and publishing in the Village Voice, aRude, Taxi, and Interview. To establish a distinct identity, they adopted the name Guzman.

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“There were no doubles in photography at that time and everyone was against it except Paula Greif,” Hansen says. As creative director at Barney’s, Greif got Guzman its first big music gig – shooting the cover of Rockbird, Debbie Harry’s 1986 solo album. “We worked with Stephen Sprouse, Andy Warhol, and Linda Mason. We were trying not to act blown away but we were,” Hansen says.

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By 1990, Guzman had opened a 3,000 square foot studio on 31st Street in Manhattan. They also secured a Los Angeles photo agent, who get them gigs in the music industry, bringing in an extraordinary line up of artists including Sting, the Neville Brothers, Digable Planets, Luther Vandross, and Dru Hill. “It was a golden era,” Hansen says. “Someone would call us up to do whatever we wanted.”

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Read the Full Story at Dazed

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Guzman. En Vogue, EC3, 1997.
Guzma. SWV, Release Some Tension, 1997.
Categories: 1990s, Art, Dazed, Fashion, Music, Photography, Women

The Prince Family: Houston Rap Royalty

Posted on May 5, 2021

Jas Prince returns to his Texas ranch after visiting Jamaica and heads straight to his horse. Photography Rodney Pinz

Blood makes us kin and loyalty makes us family,” says J. Prince, the godfather of Southern hip hop. Hailing from Houston’s Fifth Ward, Prince built his empire one brick at a time, rising to become one of the most influential figures in the culture. As DJs and MCs moved from park jams into recording studios in the 1980s, New York-based labels like Def Jam, Tommy Boy, and Sleeping Bag dominated the national scene.

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“New Yorkers’ hustle game was so strong back in the beginning,” Prince says. “They spread it out throughout the South and monopolised our radio stations and our clubs. I had to change that narrative.” In 1987, he founded Rap-A-Lot Records, introducing a new style and sound with iconic artists including Geto Boys, Pimp C, Bun B, Do or Die, and Devin the Dude, which planted the seeds for a massive independent movement across the South that continues to this day. “I inspired the homies Master P, Cash Money, Tony Draper, everybody near Texas, to follow the blueprint,” Prince says.

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A visionary whose legacy begins – but does not end – with hip hop, Prince has become a mogul whose interests also include a 1200-acre Angus cattle ranch, the aptly-named Loyalty Wines, and the Prince Boxing Complex, a multi-million dollar recreation centre located in the heart of the Fifth Ward, a historically Black neighborhood settled in Houston by freemen after the American Civil War. 

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Read the Full Story at Dazed

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J Prince Jr. greeted at Heart NightClub in Houston by a friend. Photography Rodney Pinz
Loading water at James Prince Sr.’s charity relief event for those affected by the Texas winter storm. Photography Rodney Pinz
Categories: 1980s, 1990s, Art, Dazed, Fashion, Music, Photography

Adrienne Raquel: ONYX

Posted on April 19, 2021

Adrienne Raquel. Morena, 2020.

Growing up in the 1990s and early 2000s, photographer Adrienne Raquel remembers the era of the video vixen well. Hip Hop honeys like Melyssa Ford, Karrine Steffans, Buffie the Body, Bria Myles, Gloria Velez, Esther Baxter, and Rosa Acosta were like lyrics of Wu Tang Clan’s “Ice Cream” come to life. Transforming eye candy into a fine art, each vixen possessed her own innate style and physicality, and became icons of femininity and stars in their own right.

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Raquel came of age at a time when analogue and digital technology first converged. “I grew up in a Black household where at every moment we were tapped into the culture,” she says. “Both of my parents loved music, film, and TV. I grew up feeding into all of it. My dad used to bring home magazines like Jet, Ebony, Vibe, XXL, and The Source. I would look through those magazines, tear out these amazing ads for Rocawear and Baby Phat, and scan them into our computer to create my own graphic art.” 

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On the cusp of adolescence, Raquel watched music videos with older cousins, gazing upon the vixens in awe. “What drew me to them as a child and even now at 30, is that these women were crème de la crème, recognised as the celebrities in their own right,” she says, “I was an only child, super introverted, very shy, a late bloomer, and very sheltered. These women had confidence in their sensuality, a sense of power and allure that is something I always wanted to possess – whether growing up, as a teenager, or now as a young lady.”

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Although Raquel is a self-described “wallflower,” she’s readily in the mix photographing Travis Scott,Lil Nas X, Megan Thee Stallion, Selena Gomez, fashion, and beauty for T Magazine, Vanity Fair, CR Fashion Book, Dior, and Pat McGrath Labs. Recently featured in Antwaun Sargent’s landmark book inThe New Black Vanguard: Photography Between Art and Fashion (Aperture), Raquel now takes centre stage with ONYX, her first solo museum exhibition, on April 22 at Fotografiska New York.

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Read the Full Story at Dazed

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Adrienne Raquel. Vixxen, 2020.
Adrienne Raquel. Where Dreams Lie, 2020.
Categories: Art, Dazed, Exhibitions, Photography, Women

Jamil GS: The ’90s

Posted on March 11, 2021

Jamil GS. Mary J. Blige.

As the son of jazz saxophonist Sahib Shihab, who played with no less than John Coltrane, Quincy Jones, and Thelonious Monk, the connection between visual art and music was imprinted upon photographer Jamil GS as a child, while playing his father’s records and studying album covers in his hometown of Copenhagen.

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“I believe input determines output,” he says. “I grew up in a very creative environment. My mother was talented at drawing and her mother was a famous illustrator working for fashion magazines and catalogues. There was a big American expat community in Copenhagen, and I was surrounded by musicians, artists, painters, poets, journalists, writers, directors, both American and Danish.”

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Jamil GS got into hip hop in the 1980s at the age of 13 when he was a certified B-Boy, dancing in the clubs and bombing trains as a graffiti writer. “My dad started teaching me to play the saxophone,” he remembers. “He told me, ‘If you really want to do this and become good at it you have to practice six hours a day.’ As a teenager, I was out running the streets so I was like, I don’t know about that. I really wanted to be a professional graffiti artist, to be the next LEE or FUTURA.’”

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After members of his crew got busted Jamil GS changed course, channeling his creative energy into photography, using the camera his father had given him at the age of 16. “For me, the connection with visuals and music is very close. When I hear the music, I see pictures,” he says. “I felt like photography hadn’t been explored that much by my generation. When something would come out in magazines or album art, there was a disconnect for me. I was like, this is not the experience I am having listening to this music. The music was so advanced and sophisticated: the production, compositions, poetry, slang. I wanted to make visuals that represented that.”

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Read the Full Story at Dazed

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Jamil GS. Showbiz & AG.
Categories: 1990s, Art, Bronx, Dazed, Manhattan, Music, Photography

Joe Conzo: Born in the Bronx

Posted on March 5, 2021

Joe Conzo
Joe Conzo

“Never give up! That’s my call to everything in life,” says Nuyorican artist, activist, and author Joe Conzo. The former FDNY EMT – who was buried under 9/11 rubble – is a survivor in every sense of the word. After recently battling and beating cancer of the pancreas and liver brought on by conditions at Ground Zero, Conzo made the front page of the January 26 Daily News after taking on Glacier Equities, a real estate firm that in November 2020 purchased the Bronx building where Conzo has lived since 1991.

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Two days before Christmas, Conzo and dozens of residents across the Bronx and Inwood received a letter informing them they were being evicted during a pandemic, and given just 90 days to find a new place to live as of January 31. “Getting the letter was like being told again, ‘We found cancer in your body,’” Conzo says.

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But Glacier Equities had met its match; Conzo is Bronx royalty. His grandmother, Dr. Evelina López Antonetty (1922-1984), was an activist affectionately known as “The Hell Lady of the Bronx” who let politicians know: “I don’t work for you. You work for me. You do for us first and then we will do for you.” An educator unafraid to take on the establishment, Dr. Antonetty founded United Bronx Parents (UBP) in 1965 to fight for equal opportunities for the poor, the fruits of her labour resulting in bilingual education nationwide and school meal programs for impoverished children.

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“My grandmother died fighting. Same thing with my mother,” Conzo says of Lorraine Montenegro who took the helm of UBP after her mother’s death and passed in 2017 as a result of the lack of government support in the wake of Hurricane Maria. Today, two adjacent Bronx street corners bear their respective names, honouring the work they did to help the people of the community.

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“I’m still fighting – and it’s not by choice,” Conzo says with a laugh. “It’s like that line in The Godfather III, ‘Just when I thought I was out, they pull me backed in!’ It’s about education and standing up for your rights. If you do your due diligence, you’ll come out on top. I don’t care how big Goliath is.”

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Read the Full Story at Dazed

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Joe Conzo
Joe Conzo
Categories: 1970s, Art, Books, Bronx, Dazed, Music, Photography

Asmaa Walton: Black Art Library

Posted on February 23, 2021

Sarah Fleming. Asmaa Walton, 2021.

We learn to read by looking at pictures. Our earliest books are filled with spellbinding images of the world, stories that teach us about who we are. But as we grow older we are taught to put such “childish” things aside despite the insights reading images can provide. In time, many grow turned off by books, due in no small part to the parochial texts foist upon us in school. Few rediscover the meditative pleasures of picture books; the high price point and niche subject matter rendering countless art books into obscurity every year. But with the creation of the Black Art Library, art educator Asmaa Walton is making illustrated books accessible to a generation raised on the internet.

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Acknowledging her short attention span made it difficult to read long texts, Walton was drawn to the beautiful images that drew her in, keeping her focused and engaged with texts for longer periods of time. After sharing her Amazon wish list with close friends, Walton’s art book collection began to take shape. In December 2019, the Black Art Library emerged as Walton began to share some of her favourite books on Instagram.

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“I always think about ways I can share the knowledge I have on Black Art and make it interesting,” Walton says. As the new HBO documentary,Black Art: In the Absence of Light, reveals, the art world has excluded Black artists from the canon for hundreds of years. For every Gordon Parks, Jacob Lawrence, or Romare Bearden, far too many others have gone unrecognised, their contributions relegated to a footnote or wholly erased from the conversation. It is only since the advent of the Black Lives Matter movement and the 2016 US Presidential election that a Black Art Moment began to take shape as museums and galleries scrambled to fill the voids in their collections.

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With the new exhibition, The Black Art Library, Walton fills an important void, sourcing landmark monographs, exhibition catalogues, and rare research materials that the public can peruse at their leisure in her hometown of Detroit. In a time of social isolation, the book can create an intimate connection with someone you may otherwise never meet. Here, Walton shares her thoughts on just a handful of the books included in the Black Art Library.

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Courtesy of the Black Art Library
Categories: 1960s, 1980s, 1990s, Art, Books, Dazed, Photography

Alfie White x Andre D. Wagner in Conversation

Posted on October 14, 2020

Alfie White

Street photographers are in a class of their own. Working off instincts honed to precision, they are in possession of the profound gift of capturing the moment as it unfolds. Photographers Andre D. Wagnerand Alfie White are firm proponents of traditional street photography, shooting exquisite scenes of New York City and London, respectively, on black and white film to create a timeless portrait of modern life.

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Hailing from Omaha, Nebraska, Wagner moved to New York to practice social work, fell in love with photography, and never looked back. Currently a Public Artist in Residence with the NYC Commission on Human Rights, Wagner brings an understanding of the underlying political, social, and economic dynamics to his study of community, along with the knowledge that a photographer is not an “objective” observer but rather a participant with a moral responsibility to respect and support the rights of those in the pictures.

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White is a London-based photographer and long-time fan of Wagner’s. He is currently working on two projects supported by a grant from the 2020 Dazed 100 Ideas Fund in partnership with Converse: a photo essay on the experiences of people affected by the UK Government’s handling of the COVID-19 pandemic, and a collaborative document, where he will engage other young photographers around the world to create an international portrait of the lives of young people in 2020.

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“Andre’s work was what really opened photography to me as an art form and tool,” White says. “(His) work is beautifully intimate, thought provoking, and political. But most importantly, it’s real. In a photographic world (that often) leads the viewer away from reality, Andre takes you straight there, showing life for what it is through his lens, with an emphasis on the nuanced moments (that) not only mark the current time, but will stand the test of it.”

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As part of his Dazed 100 takeover week, White speaks with Wagner for the first time in a conversation about the importance of staying true to your vision through thick and thin, the power of social media to build your own platform, and what to do when you see Beyoncé at a star-studded Hollywood party.

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Read the Full Story at Dazed

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Alfie White
Categories: Art, Dazed, Photography

Ella Snyder x Collier Schorr

Posted on September 22, 2020

“Jennifer (Head)”, 2002-2014 Photography by Collier Schorr, courtesy of 303 Gallery, New York

For anyone with a marginalised identity, being absent in and erased from mainstream imagery can be painful. Each fighting for that visibility in their own ways are photographers Collier Schorr and Ella Snyder, whose work goes beyond the confines of cisheteronormativity to provide perspectives on gender and identity that have rarely been centred in the worlds of fashion and art. 

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Schorr, who got into photography when she recognised the need for a lesbian voice in the art world of 1980s New York, has blazed a decades-spanning trail, inspiring generations of young artists to be the change they wish to see in the world. Her images have created an established space for queer voices to speak truth to power through art. 

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Snyder, meanwhile, is a New York-based model, photographer, YouTuber – and long term superfan of Schorr’s. She is currently working on her first photography book, supported by a grant from the 2020 Dazed 100 Ideas Fund in partnership with Converse. The book focuses on the transgender community and her place within it – a process of restoring a vital connection lost after she began transitioning at the age of 11 and subsequently lived stealth. A decade later, Snyder openly embraces her full identity and uses her talents to create powerful connections within the trans community and the world writ large.

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As part of her Dazed 100 takeover, Snyder speaks to Schorr for the first time – in a conversation that captures the innovative, nonconformist spirit that bridges Generations X and Z, the two discuss the ways in which photography can be used as a tool of liberation to reimagine a world where the full spectrum of selfhood can be celebrated.

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Read the Full Story at Dazed

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Collier Schorr. Self portrait from ‘8 Women’
Categories: 1980s, 1990s, Art, Dazed, Fashion, Photography, Women

Rydel Cerezo: To Be From The Same Tree & Under the White Light

Posted on November 5, 2019

“Sunday Afternoon” Photography Rydel Cerezo

“Bakakeng, Detail” Photography Rydel Cerezo

Although the history of the humankind on the islands of the Philippines goes back more than 700,000 years, four centuries of Spanish and American colonisation have radically reshaped the mindset of modern life. For photographer Rydel Cerezo, now 22, the schisms that exist between the east and the west were further amplified when he emigrated from Baguio City to Canada at the age of 10 along with his parents and two siblings.

“Like most immigrant families, my parents wanted to move in hopes of beginning better lives,” Cerezo says. “My family was living comfortably but they recognised the Philippines was beginning to face rising unemployment rates. Sacrifices were and are continuingly be made, and like most immigrant families you don’t arrive securely middle class.”

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As a queer child growing up in the Roman Catholic Church, Cerezo came to realise that, “the very thing that can bring you so much pain can yield so much joy at the same time – and that can come from both religion and family”. For the artist, photography has become a path to explore notions of love and intimacy, race and beauty, culture and history, sexuality and religion to investigate the complex interplay between identity and institutions as a means to begin healing intergenerational trauma.

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Here, in never-before-published works from the series To Be From The Same Tree, which document his relationship with his partner and partner’s family, paired with photographs from Under The White Light made in the Philippines, Cerezo shares his experiences as a queer Filipino man navigating the idea family in the east and the west – and the surprising connections he has uncovered along the way.

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Read the Full Story at Dazed

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“Andreas and I” Photography Rydel Cerezo

“Legio Mariae” Photography Rydel Cerezo

Categories: Art, Dazed, Photography

Arlene Gottfried: After Dark

Posted on September 15, 2019

Arlene Gottfried. Teatro Puerto Rico, c. 1980.

When Arlene Gottfried passed in 2017, the world took note as The New York Times ran one of her photographs on the front page of the Saturday edition and a full-page obituary inside. After a lifetime of picture making, it was a fitting tribute to the artist who had gone largely unheralded in her own lifetime.

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But Gottfired did not travail in obscurity. The author of five monographs, Gottfried’s spent her sunset years basking in the critical glow of two well-received exhibitions, Sometimes Overwhelming (2014) and Bacalaitos and Fireworks (2016), thanks to the work of New York gallerist Daniel Cooney.

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On September 13, Cooney will present Arlene Gottfried: After Dark, a selection of black and white photographs made on the streets, in the nightclubs, dive bars, back alleys, and drug dens of New York in the 1980s. Gottfried’s portraits reveal a profound sense of beauty made with exquisite sensitivity and care to the impact of poverty, addiction, and crime on people plagued by the effects of systemic oppression, generation after generation.

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Read the Full Story at Dazed

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Arlene Gottfried. Studio 54, 1979.

Arlene Gottfried. Empire Rollerdrome, c. 1980.

Categories: 1970s, 1980s, Art, Brooklyn, Dazed, Exhibitions, Manhattan, Photography

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