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Posts from the “Dazed” Category

Namsa Leuba: Crossed Looks

Posted on October 13, 2021

Namsa Leuba. HeiHere, from the series Illusions, 2019.

In 2011, Namsa Leuba traveled to Guinea Conkary, her mother’s ancestral hometown, to embark upon Ya Kala Ben (Guinean for “Crossed Looks”), her first long-term photography project that explored “the representation of Africa identity in the Western imagination. As a Guinean-Swiss woman born and raised in the West, Leuba was neither “either/or” but both at the same time. Standing on the outside, rather than in the center of her respective cultures, gave her a wholly original vantage point, one that has informed her photography practice over the past decade.

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“My Swiss heritage gave me an aesthetic sensibility for making pictures, and my African heritage and ancestors gave me a spiritual form for my work,” Leuba tells Dazed. “Depending on where we are situated in the world, we can have different perceptions. With photography was can say much more than a thousand words. It’s the perfect medium for me. My pictures are not the reality you know but expressions of my imagination.”

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Liberated from constructs of rational thought, Leuba moves gracefully between the liminal space of fiction and fact, creating fantastical photographs that combine elements of documentary, fashion, and performance with singular aplomb. With publication of her first monograph, Crossed Looks (Damiani) and first solo exhibition at the Halsey Institute of Contemporary Art, Leuba brings together five major bodies of personal work made over the past decade in Guinea, Benin, Nigeria, South Africa, and Tahiti, as well as selections of commercial and editorial work.

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Read the Full Story at Dazed

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Namsa Leuba. Untitled I, from the series Cocktail, 2011.
Namsa Leuba. Mamiwata, from the series Weke, 2017.
Categories: Africa, Art, Books, Dazed, Photography

Dario Calmese Takes On Racial Bias in Photography

Posted on October 1, 2021

Medium Skin Tone Edited Using Adobe Premium Presets. Before and After Images. Courtesy of Dario Calmese

Occupying the space of both art and artifact, photography has become one of the most influential forms of expression in world history. Fluent in every language, speaking more than a thousand words in every frame, the photograph’s ability to transcend time and space makes it an extremely supple too. But like all technological inventions, the perspectives and prejudices of its makers play an important part in shaping its abilities and development. Invariably, racial bias has long played a role.

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With the creation and mass market distribution of color film in the mid-1950s, lab technicians established a system for calibrating skin tones that would enhance and flatter the features of their target market: white women. Until 1954, Eastman Kodak maintained a monopoly until the federal government asserted their power to break it up ­— but by then the damage had been done. Kodak produced the Shirley card, a prototype that would be remade for decades to come that featured a pale brunette as the gold standard for calibrating the light and shadow on skin tones during the printing process.

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If you didn’t match these aesthetics, color film was unlikely to flatter you, especially if you possessed deeper, darker skin tones. writer Syreeta McFadden remembers seeing the evidence of photography’s color bias. “I was 12 years old and paging through a photo album…. In some pictures, I am a mud brown, in others I’m a blue black,” she wrote in a story for BuzzFeed News. “Some of the pictures were taken within moments of one another. ’You look like charcoal,’ someone said, and giggled. I felt insulted, but I didn’t have the words for that yet.”

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Read the Full Story at Dazed

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Medium Skin Tone Edited Using Adobe Premium Presets. Before and After Images Courtesy of Dario Calmese
Categories: Art, Dazed, Photography

Reverend Wanda R. Johnson Honors Her Son Oscar Grant

Posted on August 17, 2021

Oscar Grant and his daughter

“Oftentimes when a loved one is killed by law enforcement officers, that individual is demonised,” says reverend Wanda R. Johnson, mother of Oscar Grant III, whose last day on earth was memorialised in Ryan Coogler’s 2013 film Fruitvale Station starring Michael B. Jordan.

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In the early hours of New Year’s Day 2009, Grant, a 22-year-old Black man, was restrained by Bay Area Rapid Transit (BART) Police. He was forced to lie face down on the train station platform, then shot in the back by officer Johannes Mehserle. Although millions watched one of the very first police shootings captured by mobile phone, no one outside the police department had heard some 60 hours of police investigations, which were kept secret until now. 

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Earlier this year, KQED radio station filed a lawsuit against BART, forcing them to comply with California’sThe Right to Know Act, which gives the public access to select records of police misconduct and excessive force. On July 8, NPR and KQED released the newest episode of the On Our Watch podcast, which makes information on those tapes available for the first time. 

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Last October, Johnson organised a press conference asking for Grant’s case to be reopened in order to bring charges against a second officer, Anthony “Tony” Pirone, based on the new evidence that had come to light. According to a 2009 Meyers Nave report commissioned by BART, “Pirone was, in large part, responsible for setting the events in motion that created a chaotic and tense situation on the platform, setting the stage, even if inadvertent, for the shooting of Oscar Grant.”

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Read the Full Story at Dazed

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Reverend Wanda R. Johnson
Categories: Dazed

Two Fingas & James T Kirk: The Junglist

Posted on August 11, 2021

Eddie Otchere
Eddie Otchere

Picture it: South London, 1994. Local writer Andrew Green and photographer Eddie Otchere adopt the pseudonyms Two Fingas and James T Kirk, respectively, and use their lived experiences as the departure point for Junglist, a fictional coming-of-age tale that follows the exploits of Meth, Biggie, Q, and Craig over a weekend set in the city’s burgeoning jungle scene. Moving at the speed of sound, the 20 year-olds completed the book in just two months, crafting a mesmerising pulp fiction novel that is equal parts music, poetry, and film.

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As the lovechild of UK rave and sound system culture, jungle was the sound of the world at the edge of a new era about to reveal itself. Driven by breakbeats – the rhythms that Jamaican DJs like Kool Herc used when he invented hip hop in the early 1970s – microengineered to twist time into a sonic blaze, jungle drew from and remade techno, rave, electro, dancehall, dub, hip hop, and house into an Afrofuturistic sound. The burgeoning culture quickly took the city by storm, maintaining its own DIY feel via an interconnected web of nightclubs, white label pressings, and pirate radio shows. 

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“Jungle burst out of the underground and for a brief period (it) was everywhere – you couldn’t watch TV or listen to the radio without hearing elements of it,” says Green. “Jungle was the first electronic music I connected with; it felt like it was just for me, my crew, and my peers. We were making the scene appear out of nowhere. At the time, there were no clubs in the centre of London that played music for Black audiences so you had to be on the outskirts to find clubs. It was a mission to go out.”

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Read the Full Story at Dazed

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Eddie Otchere
Eddie Otchere

Categories: 1990s, Art, Books, Dazed, Music

Stanley Stellar: Artifacts at the End of a Decade

Posted on July 26, 2021

Stanley Stellar. “Brian Michaels in a cowboy hat with a friend, West Side Highway NYC” (1981).

On May 18 1981, the New York Native, the only gay newspaper in the city, published the first story on a new disease later identified as AIDS. After hearing rumours of a “gay cancer,” the paper’s medical writer Lawrence D. Mass contacted the Center for Disease Control and Prevention. The CDC claimed that word of a deadly threat descending upon the gay community largely unfounded – a pernicious start to what would become a longstanding pattern of malignant neglect by the federal government.

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The advent of AIDS marked the end of a brief but shining chapter of LGBTQ+ history that began with the Stonewall uprising in 1969. As a new generation came of age during the Gay Liberation Movement, they transformed the street of New York into a garden of earthly delights, reveling in the bountiful pleasures of existence itself. No longer driven into the shadows, forced to deny their true selves, the community could openly partake in sex, love, friendship, and camaraderie.

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Although the Supreme Court of the United States (SCOTUS) would not extend Constitutional rights to the LGBTQ+ community until 2003, change was in the air. After 20 years of pathologising homosexuality as a form of mental illness, the American Psychiatry Association removed it from the DSM-II in 1973 – the very same year that SCOTUS modified its definition of “obscenity” to finally legalise the depiction of male frontal nudity.

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While established artists like Andy Warhol began experimenting with homoerotic photography in his series Sex Parts and Torsos, he struggled to call a spade a space, writing in The Andy Warhol Diaries: “I shouldn’t call them nudes. It should be something more artistic. Like ‘Landscapes’.” But a new crop of emerging artists including Antonio Lopez (1943-1987), Peter Hujar (1934-1987), Alvin Baltrop (1947-2004), Robert Mapplethorpe (1946-1989), and Peter Berlin were more inclined to embrace the spirit of the times, centring LGBTQ+ life in their work.

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Read the Full Story at Dazed

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Stanley Stellar. “Grand Torino, Hudson River Waterfront, NYC” (1979).
Stanley Stellar. “Gay Pride Day on Christopher Street, NYC” (1983).
Categories: 1970s, 1980s, Art, Dazed, Exhibitions, Manhattan, Photography

Judy Chicago: The Flowering

Posted on July 23, 2021

Boxing-ring advertisement, Artforum, 1971, Jack Glenn Gallery, Corona Del Mar, CA

“I had a singular vision from very early on and for a long time I didn’t understand why I kept encountering so much resistance in the word,” legendary feminist artist, educator, and activist Judy Chicago tells Dazed. As a white, cis, middle-class, Jewish-American woman coming of age in the mid-twentieth century, Chicago was not content to allow society to dictate the trajectory of her life. She learned from an early age that the only way forward was to craft her own identity and path – a lesson that served her throughout her trailblazing career.

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To call Chicago “prolific” would be an understatement; her output is monumental, her mediums as varied and all encompassing as womanhood itself, her style and subject matter a one-woman revolution in the history of art. Now, with her first-ever career retrospective opening on August 28 at San Francisco’s de Young Museum, Chicago brings together works from her groundbreaking projects including The Dinner Party (1974-1979), The Birth Project (1980–1985), PowerPlay (1982–1987), Holocaust Project: From Darkness into Light (1985–1993), and The End: A Meditation on Death and Extinction (2015–2019, which broke through the boundaries proscribed around gender in the contemporary art world.

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Although Chicago is outspoken and fearless when it comes to challenging sexism and misogyny, she is no extrovert; public appearances are simply a necessary part of her work. It is in the studio alone with her work where she draws energy and builds strength, her dedication and determination necessary to play the long game. Her projects are like icebergs: massive in scope, though what the public sees is only the pinnacle of years of research and development.

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Such could be said of The Flowering: The Autobiography of Judy Chicago (Thames & Hudson), the extraordinary 416-page memoir that she penned while in social isolation. Releasing July 20, Chicago takes us on an intimate tour of her development as an artist, sharing the challenges, struggles, and triumphs to make space for women in the male dominated art world, which established false hierarchies that continue to this day. Refusing to play along, Chicago subverted the system from within, using her work to call out established notions of art, history, and gender, restoring the Divine Feminine to its rightful place in the pantheon.

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Read the Full Story at Dazed

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Judy Chicago on a Doublehead bronze at the Shidoni Foundry, Santa Fe, NM, 1986 Photograph © Donald Woodman/Artists Rights Society (ARS), NY
Judy Chicago. Rainbow Pickett, 1965 (re-created 2004). Latex paint on canvas-covered plywood, 118.79 × 119.79 × 132 in Collection of David and Diane Waldman.
Categories: 1960s, 1970s, 1980s, 1990s, Art, Books, Dazed, Painting, Women

Beau McCall: Rewind – Memories on Repeat

Posted on July 13, 2021

Beau McCall

“Philadelphia is conservative, and I have never really been conservative because I’m a visual person,” says African American artist and Philly native Beau McCall. Known as “The Button Man” for his wearable art that transforms the universal fastener into sparkling gems that address issues of race, economics, social justice, and pop culture, McCall’s aesthetic sensibilities placed him in a league all his own from a young age.

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Growing up, McCall’s sense of style evolved in tandem with his musical tastes – from hippie to punk to funk with effortless grace. Determined to forge his own identity, he used music and fashion to express himself, donning platforms, skinny pants, and midriff tops, with dreams of dressing like a rock star.

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“If I went out shopping and saw something I couldn’t afford, I would go home and try to make something similar like the pants that FloJo used to wear with one leg,” he recalls. “I did that in seventh grade. I walked through the neighbourhood a couple of times and they thought I was crazy. I was in an individual. I never wanted to play follow the leader. I just wanted to have my own identity.”

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After coming our in his teens, McCall found what would become his chosen family, a group of likeminded folks who shared his penchant for glamour and artistry – Joey, Tony, Trey, Tracy, James, Sifuddin, Moi Renee, Charles, Bianca, and Antoine AKA Dee Dee Somemore. “We all lived in the same neighborhood, bumped into each other casually, and gravitated to each other, knowing we were coming to terms with our sexuality,” he says. “When I started hanging with my gay friends, it was Diana Ross, Donna Summer, all the disco queens – so my visuals changed again and I started dabbling in drag. I was still expressing myself artistically.”

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Read the Full Story at Dazed

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Beau McCall
Beau McCall
Categories: 1970s, 1980s, Art, Books, Dazed, Photography

Catherine Opie: The Phaidon Monograph

Posted on July 6, 2021

Catherine Opie. Dyke (1993)

At 60 years old, Catherine Opie speaks with grace and strength that comes from a lifetime of forging her own path through art and connecting with people from all walks of life, whether standing behind the camera and in front of the classroom. As one of the leading photographers of her generation, Opie has chronicled the people, places, and politics of a United States deeply grounded in the intersection between home and identity, creating an intimate portrait of contemporary American life.

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In the retrospective monograph, Catherine Opie (Phaidon), the artist brings together over 200 images made over the past 40 years from a wide array of series that reveal the innate humanity we all share. Whether photographing lesbians or high school football players across the US, surfers in California, or ice fishers in Minnesota, Opie is attuned to the subtle frequencies of the individual and the communities they populate.

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Throughout her life, photography has served as a bridge, helping Opie to navigate her way through different groups. It is a practice she picked up in her youth, one born out of a very real need to reach across the divide. At the age of 13, Opie moved from Ohio to California, and entered high school as the “new girl”, fairly shy and unsure how to connect with kids who grew up together. “I wasn’t great at figuring out how to make friends,” Opie tells Dazed.

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Then inspiration struck. Opie, who had been experimenting in photography since age nine, built a darkroom and began photographing her friends in school plays. “I would go home, print the photographs at night, and then give them prints,” Opie recalls of her formative experience forging bonds with new groups. Things fell into place as Opie found her role: the engaged observer who could move seamlessly between different groups. Wherever the path may take her, Opie can embed herself within the fabric of a community without disrupting it.

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Read the Full Story at Dazed

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Catherine Opie. Gina and April (1998)
Categories: 1980s, 1990s, Art, Books, Dazed, Photography

The 2021 Dazed100

Posted on June 28, 2021

The Native
Kennedi Carter

2021’s Dazed 100 is a global celebration of next-gen names leading change in their communities and across their fields, curated with a little help from Dazed 100-ers of years gone by. And this year, it runs as part of Open To Change, a far-reaching partnership between Dazed and Converse to increase opportunities, education and representation in the creative industries.

This is about the future; every name on 2021’s line up has been instrumental in enacting change in their field and looks at what’s next for the creative industry. Each entrant was asked, “How will you shape the future?” with Converse funding the winning project with a $30,000 fund and mentoring to bring their idea to life. The public vote will deliver 10 finalists from which Dazed and Converse will select the winner, announced in early July.

Read the Full List Here

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Read: The Native | Kennedi Carter | Kandis Williams | Hugh Hayden | Somaya Critchlow | Diet Paratha

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Kandis Williams
Hugh Hayden
Somaya Critchlow
Diet Paratha
Categories: Art, Dazed, Painting, Photography

Anh Duong: La Tentation d’Exister. There is always Champagne in the Fridge

Posted on June 23, 2021

Anh Duong, “Don’t Come too Close, Don’t Go too Far”, 2012

“I am my own muse. I am the subject I know best. The subject I want to know better,” Frida Kahlo said, her words revealing a profound truth about the creation of art. In the hands of a painter, the canvas is transformed into a page in the book of life, delving into the intricate facets of existence that lay both within and beneath the shimmering surfaces of the visible world. The painting is an exploration of the artist’s inner and outer worlds, creating a space where the two might meet and in that encounter proffer something we have never before seen.

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“As an artist, you always have to challenge yourself. It’s about growth, engaging with the unknown, and recognising something new, like, ‘Yes, that’s what I was searching for’,” says French-American artist, actor, and model Anh Duong, who is currently exhibiting a selection of her works in La Tentation d’Exister. There is always Champagne in the Fridge at Galerie Gmurzynska in Zurich. Bringing together a selection of still lifes, self-portraits, and portraits of Vincent Gallo, Susan Sarandon, and Anjelica Huston, the exhibition offers an intimate look at Duong’s practice over the past 30 years. 

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Duong first made her name as a model when noted photographer David Seidner launched her career in March 1986 with an Yves Saint Laurent campaign for Vogue Paris. Trained as a ballerina, Duong was a natural in front of the camera, effortlessly holding difficult poses for extended periods of time, and quickly went on work with luminaries including Herb Ritts, Steven Meisel, Patrick Demarchelier, and Peter Lindbergh. Muse to Christian Lacroix, Duong has walked the runway for John Galliano, Yohji Yamamoto, and Karl Lagerfeld, becoming a singular beauty during the era of the supermodel.

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Read the Full Story at Dazed

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Anh Duong, “Anjelica Huston”, 2009
Anh Duong, “Éloge de L’amour”, 2012

Categories: Art, Dazed, Painting

DonChristian Jones: Volvo Truck

Posted on June 17, 2021

Courtesy of DonChristian

Decades before Will Smith immortalised his hometown in the opening bars of The Fresh Prince of Bel-Air, the sound of Philadelphia has helped to shape the sonic landscape of global pop culture. Half a century ago, the iconic dance/music television show Soul Train kicked off its 35-year run, which feature MFSB’s“T.S.O.P. (The Sound of Philadelphia)” as its theme song. “People all over the world, let’s get it on, it’s time to get down,” The Three Degrees crooned over a disco-inflected beat, letting folks know it was time to get up off the sofa and move your feet.

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Over the next decade Philly Soul, as it was popularly known, would redefine R&B, disco, and funk as luminaries like the O’Jays, Teddy Pendergrass, and Patti LaBelle released classic records that would soon become the backbone of the newly emerging art form known as hip hop. By the time the 90s came around, the 70s was back in vogue as Gen Xers reveled in the sweet nostalgia of youth, bringing back bellbottoms, platform shoes, and “Lady Marmalade” with equal aplomb.

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At the same time, a new generation of millennials were creating memories of their very own, absorbing the smells, textures, colours, and sounds of 90s culture into the foundation of their very selves. “One’s period is when one is very young,” fashion doyenne Diana Vreeland sagely observed in her 1984 memoir D.V., going on to note how each period casts a long shadow in its wake. Shaped by the people, places, and times in which we live, our aesthetic sensibilities often reflect the profound impressions were received as youth.

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“For me, the 90s in Philadelphia felt very much a Chocolate City,” says African-American musician and artist DonChristian Jones, who will present Volvo Truck, on June 17 and 18 as part of The Shed’s Open Call commission series in New York. A love letter to his mother and four aunts who raised him, the original hour-long album and immersive sculptural installation brings together Jones’ genre blending gifts that situate hip hop firmly within the canon of fine art.

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Read the Full Story at Dazed

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Courtesy of DonChristian
Courtesy of DonChristian
Categories: 1990s, Art, Dazed, Music, Photography

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