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Posts from the “1990s” Category

Paul McDonough: Headed West

Posted on July 8, 2021

Paul McDonough. Lake Elsinore, California, 1982.

From an early age, American photographer Paul A. McDonough displayed a natural gift for making art, a talent he shared with childhood friend, noted photographer Tod Papageorge. Although trained as painter, McDonough became restless in the studio and wanted to get out in the world. “Photography not only let him do that, it encouraged his need to roam,” says Yona McDonough, the photographer’s wife.

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After dreaming of moving to New York City, McDonough finally arrived in 1967. “It was every bit as wonderful and exhilarating as he’d imagined,” says Yona. “Paul said that the constant activity, flowing, ebbing, bubbling over, was like a kind of endlessly unfolding theatre and all he had to do was walk and wait – it would all come to him.” 

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A true flâneur, McDonough would walk the streets of New York for six hours or more, meeting up with Garry Winogrand and Papageorge before continuing his journey. Inspired by the work of Walker Evans, Robert Frank, Henri-Cartier Bresson, Eugène Atget and Bill Brandt, McDonough understood that he could create art anywhere he ventured. 

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Read the Full Story at Huck

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Paul McDonough. California, no date.
Categories: 1970s, 1980s, 1990s, Art, Books, Huck, Photography

Catherine Opie: The Phaidon Monograph

Posted on July 6, 2021

Catherine Opie. Dyke (1993)

At 60 years old, Catherine Opie speaks with grace and strength that comes from a lifetime of forging her own path through art and connecting with people from all walks of life, whether standing behind the camera and in front of the classroom. As one of the leading photographers of her generation, Opie has chronicled the people, places, and politics of a United States deeply grounded in the intersection between home and identity, creating an intimate portrait of contemporary American life.

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In the retrospective monograph, Catherine Opie (Phaidon), the artist brings together over 200 images made over the past 40 years from a wide array of series that reveal the innate humanity we all share. Whether photographing lesbians or high school football players across the US, surfers in California, or ice fishers in Minnesota, Opie is attuned to the subtle frequencies of the individual and the communities they populate.

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Throughout her life, photography has served as a bridge, helping Opie to navigate her way through different groups. It is a practice she picked up in her youth, one born out of a very real need to reach across the divide. At the age of 13, Opie moved from Ohio to California, and entered high school as the “new girl”, fairly shy and unsure how to connect with kids who grew up together. “I wasn’t great at figuring out how to make friends,” Opie tells Dazed.

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Then inspiration struck. Opie, who had been experimenting in photography since age nine, built a darkroom and began photographing her friends in school plays. “I would go home, print the photographs at night, and then give them prints,” Opie recalls of her formative experience forging bonds with new groups. Things fell into place as Opie found her role: the engaged observer who could move seamlessly between different groups. Wherever the path may take her, Opie can embed herself within the fabric of a community without disrupting it.

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Read the Full Story at Dazed

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Catherine Opie. Gina and April (1998)
Categories: 1980s, 1990s, Art, Books, Dazed, Photography

In the Gallery with Bene Taschen

Posted on July 5, 2021

Arlene Gottfried. Striped Woman at Studio 54, NY, 1979.

“Art was always a part of my life,” says gallerist Bene Taschen, the son of world-renowned German book publisher Benedikt Taschen. “Growing up [in Cologne], I was surrounded by photographers and met great artists working with my father, like Helmut Newton. It was a blessing to have this as a part of my daily life. It was inspiring to be surrounded by art in any form.”

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In 2011, an unexpected twist of fate provided Taschen with the opportunity to strike out on his own. He learned that a German exhibition planned for his friend, American photographer Gregory Bojorquez, had been cancelled. “That made me frustrated, so I decided to organise the exhibition myself,” says Taschen. “I didn’t have much gallery experience, but I had a passion for photography and a desire to create a good show that would excite and inspire people who saw it.”

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Titled Streets of LA, the exhibition, which was first exhibited in Berlin in September 2011, then Cologne in November 2011, celebrated the people of Bojorquez’s hometown through the lens of an insider: a vantage point that Taschen finds profoundly compelling as a gallerist. “Curating is a very personal experience, and I’m always trying to create something that expresses how I feel and makes me happy,” he says. “The selection of images can tell a story of the artist and their work, but it has to look good together on the wall. I may choose works for different reasons but it has to be visually convincing when it is hung. You can’t just throw 35 photographs in the room and call it an exhibition.”

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Read the Full Story at British Journal of Photography

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Miron Zownir. NYC 1982
Categories: 1960s, 1970s, 1980s, 1990s, Art, British Journal of Photography, Exhibitions, Photography

Diana Markosian: Santa Barbara Opens at SFMoMA

Posted on July 2, 2021

Diana Markosian, First Day at Work, from “Santa Barbara”, 2019

Seven decades after the October Revolution, the Soviet Union was teetering on the brink of collapse as internal unrest threatened to dissolve the once stalwart nation that had risen to global dominance. With Moscow losing control, the country dissolved as 10 republics seceded during the last quarter of 1991, that Christmas. President Mikhail Gorbachev resigned, no longer having a country to run.

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In an instant, Diana Markosian’s world was turned upside down. Born in Moscow in 1989, her parents’ dream for their family was wrested away and their PhDs couldn’t save them in an economy with no jobs. As a child, Markosian and her brother took the streets to pick bottles to make enough money to buy bread. Her father made painted matryoshka dolls to sell to tourists visiting the Red Square, while the stress of destitution eventually broke the marriage apart. “I saw in my mother the sadness of ‘this can’t be my life,’” Markosian recalls.

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On January 2, 1993, the radiant light of escapism came from the most unlikely of places. The daytime soap opera, Santa Barbara, was ending its ten-year run that month, and would become the very first American television show broadcast in Russia. As a young girl, Markosian idolized the show, which chronicled the dramatic intrigues of the Capwell clan, who embodied the glitz and glamour of 1980s Southern California.

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But these images of wealth and prestige led Markosian to believe that America wasn’t a place she and her family belonged — which made her move to the actual Santa Barbara all the more a shock to the system after her mother decided to marry an American man and immigrate to the United States in 1996 in order to provide the best possible life for her children.

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Read the Full Story at Blind

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Diana Markosian, Eli’s House, from “Santa Barbara”, 2019
Diana Markosian, Mom by the Pool, from “Santa Barbara”, 2019
Categories: 1990s, Art, Blind, Books, Exhibitions, Photography

Sandra S. Phillips: American Geography – Photographs of Land Use from 1840 to the Present

Posted on June 23, 2021

George Chasing Wildfires, Eureka, Nevada, 2012 by Lucas Foglia

Though the phrase “Manifest Destiny” smacks of influencer-speak, it’s more accurately a warning of what will befall opportunists whose ambitions and entitlement are grounded in delusion rather than reality. In Biblical terms, we reap what we sow – a principle all too clear when examining the destruction of the American landscape, the nation’s unchecked greed, and the worsening climate crisis. 

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For the new book, American Geography: Photographs of Land Use from 1840 to the Present (Radius Books), Sandra S. Phillips, Curator Emerita at the San Francisco Museum of Art, embarked on a 10-year journey to examine the history of land use in the United States. Featuring the work of Dawoud Bey,William Eggleston, Mitch Epstein, LaToya Ruby Frazier, Dorothea Lange, and Stephen Shore, among others, the book explores the role photography has played in shaping our ideas about conservation, expansion, and exploitation of the environment.

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Read the Full Story at Huck

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Indian Summer, from the series Four Seasons, 2006 by Wendy Red Star
“Hiding Place,” Cambridge, MA, from the series The Underground Railroad, 2010 by Amani Willet
Categories: 1960s, 1970s, 1980s, 1990s, Art, Books, Huck, Photography

Ann Ray: Lee Alexander McQueen

Posted on June 18, 2021

Ann Ray, Inside, London II, 2000.

Pablo Picasso sagely advised, “Learn the rules like a pro, so you can break them like an artist” – a sensibility that applies to Lee Alexander McQueen (1969-2010) and his longtime collaborator, French photographer Ann Ray, otherwise known as Anne Deniau. Between 1997 and 2010, Ray collaborated with the iconoclastic British designer who turned the world of fashion upside down, creating some 32,000 prints, contact sheets, and vintage works, most of which have never been seen by the public before.

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“For 13 years, I never gave one photograph to anyone. After Lee left, I would talk to him, saying, ‘Okay this is my job. You knew what you were doing. I’m in charge now,’” says Ray, who has come to understand the purpose of this singular collaboration. “My archive is both tangible, prints and negatives, and also non-tangible: it’s my experience and memories. I have to be very careful and make sure his legacy is transmitted with dignity. These photographs belong to history.”

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Now, more than a decade after the designer’s tragic death, Barrett Barrera Projects, one of the world’s largest private collections of garments and ephemera created by Lee Alexander McQueen, has acquired Ray’s photographic archive of the most revolutionary atelier of our time. The acquisition of Ray’s archive allows Barrett Barrera Projects to tell a richer story about McQueen, celebrating the complex artistry that lies at the heart of his work.

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Read the Full Story at Blind

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Ann Ray, Savage, Givenchy Couture, 1997.
Ann Ray, Secret, Interrupted, 1998.
Categories: 1990s, Art, Blind, Fashion, Photography

DonChristian Jones: Volvo Truck

Posted on June 17, 2021

Courtesy of DonChristian

Decades before Will Smith immortalised his hometown in the opening bars of The Fresh Prince of Bel-Air, the sound of Philadelphia has helped to shape the sonic landscape of global pop culture. Half a century ago, the iconic dance/music television show Soul Train kicked off its 35-year run, which feature MFSB’s“T.S.O.P. (The Sound of Philadelphia)” as its theme song. “People all over the world, let’s get it on, it’s time to get down,” The Three Degrees crooned over a disco-inflected beat, letting folks know it was time to get up off the sofa and move your feet.

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Over the next decade Philly Soul, as it was popularly known, would redefine R&B, disco, and funk as luminaries like the O’Jays, Teddy Pendergrass, and Patti LaBelle released classic records that would soon become the backbone of the newly emerging art form known as hip hop. By the time the 90s came around, the 70s was back in vogue as Gen Xers reveled in the sweet nostalgia of youth, bringing back bellbottoms, platform shoes, and “Lady Marmalade” with equal aplomb.

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At the same time, a new generation of millennials were creating memories of their very own, absorbing the smells, textures, colours, and sounds of 90s culture into the foundation of their very selves. “One’s period is when one is very young,” fashion doyenne Diana Vreeland sagely observed in her 1984 memoir D.V., going on to note how each period casts a long shadow in its wake. Shaped by the people, places, and times in which we live, our aesthetic sensibilities often reflect the profound impressions were received as youth.

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“For me, the 90s in Philadelphia felt very much a Chocolate City,” says African-American musician and artist DonChristian Jones, who will present Volvo Truck, on June 17 and 18 as part of The Shed’s Open Call commission series in New York. A love letter to his mother and four aunts who raised him, the original hour-long album and immersive sculptural installation brings together Jones’ genre blending gifts that situate hip hop firmly within the canon of fine art.

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Read the Full Story at Dazed

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Courtesy of DonChristian
Courtesy of DonChristian
Categories: 1990s, Art, Dazed, Music, Photography

Chester Higgins: The Indelible Spirit

Posted on June 17, 2021

Chester Higgins. Early morning coffee, Harlem, 1974.

While working at The Campus Digest, the Tuskegee Institute student newspaper, in the late 1960s, Chester Higgins visited the studio of photographer P.H. Polk and was struck by his powerful portraits of Black Americans made in the 1930s. 

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“The countenance of the people in Polk’s pictures made me pause,” says Huggins, who hails from the small farming community of New Brockton, Alabama and recognized the archetypes immortalized in these works.  “These pictures existed because Polk understood and appreciated the dignity and character of people.”

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Knowing he couldn’t afford to commission Polk to do the same for the people of New Brockton, Higgins seized upon an idea and asked if he might borrow Polk’s camera to learn how to make photographs. “He studied me, then finally said, ‘If you’re fool enough to ask me that request, I’m going to be fool enough to help you.’”

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Read the Full Story at Huck

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Chester Higgins. Looking for Justice, Civil Rights Rally, Montgomery, Alabama, 1968.
Categories: 1960s, 1970s, 1980s, 1990s, Art, Exhibitions, Huck, Photography

Cammie Toloui: 5 Dollars for 3 Minutes

Posted on June 16, 2021

Cammie Toloui

In 1990, radical feminist musician and artist Cammie Toloui took a job working at the Lusty Lady, San Francisco’s famous women-owned strip club, to pay her way through San Francisco State University, where she was pursuing a degree in photojournalism. Seizing the opportunity to document a world few knew, Cammie turned the camera on her customers inside the ‘Private Pleasures’ booth, creating an extraordinary series of portraits and journal entries collected in the new book 5 Dollars for 3 Minutes (Void, July 2021).

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“Stripping is the patriarchy and capitalism laid bare — the intersection of the two in your face,” Cammie says. “The men felt like they had the power because they’re standing there with a lot of bills, and we’re on the other side of the glass like, ‘How do I get it?’ I think that that’s what makes the pictures so compelling — you’re looking behind the curtain, and the Wizard of Oz is just this dude who looks a little needy.”

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As a member of the punk band, the Yeastie Girlz, Cammie saw sex work as a natural extension of her “pussycentric” persona. “We’d talk about things that seem radical, even in a punk club,” she recalls. “We would get on stage with a speculum and show women how to give themselves a self-examination or talk about our period — all the things that made boys really squirm. It wasn’t that big a jump for me to perform in a strip club. I wanted to be as punk as possible, and at the time, that was where the really wild girls went.”

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Read the Full Story at i-D

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Cammie Toloui
Categories: 1990s, Art, Books, i-D, Photography

Khalid Hadi: Disasters of War

Posted on June 15, 2021

Khalid Hadi. Kandahar 1990s

No invading nation has ever conquered Afghanistan — not even the United States, which boasts a military budget of $721.5 billion for 2020 alone. On April 13, President Biden announced the nation would withdraw troops by the 20th anniversary of the 9/11 attacks, bringing to an end the country’s longest war on foreign soil. Despite the fact that Afghanistan ranks 169 out of 189 on the United Nations Human Development Index, the rugged mountainous nation has held its own against the U.S., which deployed almost 800,000 troops in a war that cost an estimated $2 trillion. “We have won the war and America has lost,” Taliban’s shadow mayor in the Baikh district told the BBC.

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The money, military, and manpower of global empires are simply no match for the people of Afghanistan, a grim truth the British Empire and the Soviet Union discovered for themselves in the 19th and 20th centuries respectvely. Rudyard Kipling recognized as much, penning the poem “The Young British Soldier” in 1895, advising in the final verse: “When you’re wounded and left on Afghanistan’s plains, / And the women come out to cut up what remains, / Jest roll to your rifle and blow out your brains / An’ go to your Gawd like a soldier.”

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But what of the cost of defending oneself from attack, of standing up to trespass and maintaining sovereignty of the land? This is a history of trauma and survival rarely given its proper due in the West. But American photographer Edward Grazda, who has documented Afghanistan since 1980, understands those who lived to tell the tale must be heard. With the publication of the new book, Disasters of War (Fraglich), Grazda brings together the portraits Afghan photographer Khalid Hadi made between 1992-1994 documenting the wounded fighters, civilians, and orphans who survived the Soviet-Afghan War.

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Read the Full Story at Blind

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Khalid Hadi. Kandahar 1990s
Mullah Akond Foundation for victims of the Soviet-Afghan War. Kandahar, 1990s
Categories: 1990s, Art, Blind, Books, Photography

Ming Smith: Evidence

Posted on June 9, 2021

Ming Smith. Grace Jones, Studio 54 (New York), 1970s.

Throughout her five-decade career, Ming Smith has broken through boundaries she has faced as a Black American artist coming of age during the Civil Rights Movement. Born in Detroit, raised in Columbus, Ohio, and educated at Howard University in Washington D.C., Smith moved to New York in the 1970s to work as a model alongside pioneers including Grace Jones, Toukie Smith, and Bethann Hardison.

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“I didn’t call myself a photographer, but I was constantly shooting,” the artist said in Ming Smith: An Aperture Monograph. “I was just a young person in New York trying to find my way, and I had to support myself, so I took a job as a model.”

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While on a go-see, Smith heard Kamoinge members Louis Draper and Anthony Barboza discussing photography. She showed Draper her work and he invited Smith to become the first woman to join the legendary photography collective. “That was a major awakening,” Smith said. 

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Read the Full Story at Huck

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Ming Smith. Self-Portrait as Josephine (New York), 1986.
Categories: 1970s, 1980s, 1990s, Art, Books, Exhibitions, Manhattan, Photography

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