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Posts from the “1980s” Category

Martin Parr: Early Works

Posted on October 15, 2019

Mr and Mrs Smith, owners of The Fairlawn Hotel, Calcutta, India, 1984 © Martin Parr / Magnum Photos

Martin Parr remembers when, as a young man growing up in the UK, he first realised that it was his destiny to become a photographer. It began when his grandfather lent him a camera, and increased when he discovered Creative Camera magazine in the late 1960s, immersing himself in the work of Robert Frank and Garry Winogrand.

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“But what was most exciting for me was seeing the work of Tony Ray-Jones,”Parr tells AnOther. The year was 1971. Parr, a photography student at Manchester Polytechnic, came across Ray-Jones’ photographs made in England in the late 1960s and was transfixed. “This was one of those moments when your life is changed,” he remembers. “You see something and think, ‘Ahh, this is the aspiration I can look to in terms of work.’”

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With his compass set, Parr set off to photograph the coast and countryside of north England and Northern Ireland, creating series of black and white works that laid the foundation for the next 50 years of his practice. In the new book,Martin Parr: Early Works(RRB Photobooks/Martin Parr Foundation), the photographer takes us back to those formative years, painting a portrait of Britain that eloquently captures the idiosyncratic character of its people.

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Read the Full Story at AnOther

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Butlins Filey, North Yorkshire, England, 1972© Martin Parr / Magnum Photos

Manorhamilton Sheep Fair, County Leitrim, Ireland, 1981 © Martin Parr / Magnum Photos

Categories: 1970s, 1980s, AnOther, Art, Books, Photography

Simon Doonan: Drag – The Complete Story

Posted on October 1, 2019

Vaginal Davis, Courtesy of CHEAP

Although drag has existed on the world stage throughout human history, it was only in the early decades of the new millennium—under the care of ‘Supermodel’ singer-turned-reality television sensation RuPaul, no less—that it truly went mainstream.

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Aesthete Simon Doonan, author of the richly illustrated history Drag: The Complete Story (Laurence King), gives Ru the nod as the most influential drag in a culture replete with legends. “RuPaul is the one,” Doonan tells Document, speaking on the phone from his home in New York. “Some of the drag kings and queens of the early 19th century, like Julian Eltinge and Vesta Tilley, took it very far and were internationally known, but RuPaul eclipses them. In 100 million years, no one could have ever envisioned the breadth of his impact. He’s on a Madonna-level of impact on the culture.”

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Read the Full Story at Document Journal

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L/ Drag queens reading Variety. Credit: Author’s own collection R/Wayne County poster. Credit: Courtesy Wayne County

Categories: 1960s, 1970s, 1980s, 1990s, Art, Books, Document Journal, Photography

Antoinette “Tony” Sales on Designing Costumes for Rock Stars

Posted on September 27, 2019

Antoinette “Tony” Sales at Norman Seeff’s studio on Sunset Blvd. in Los Angeles, 1977 © Phil Fewsmith.

Over the past 50 years, American artist Antoinette “Tony” Sales has traveled through the rarefied world of rock royalty, designing and making stage clothes for icons including Dolly Parton, Johnny Cash, Stephen Tyler, and Exene Cervenka. The mastermind behind Freddie Mercury’s iconic rhinestone fingernail gloves and Nick Lowe’s legendary Riddler suit has always believed that, “Each of us inherently has within us the ability to create the life of our dreams.”

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Though shy and demure, the willowy blonde Texan has always been possessed by a fearless streak. “If I wanted to do something, I would,” Tony tells Document Journal from her home in Los Angeles, where she continues to create stage clothes for film, television, and music videos. It was a lesson gleaned as a child when her father, science-fiction writer and US military personnel Keith Laumer received an assignment to move to London in the early 1960s, and brought his family along.

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“My older brother, Tom Wright, was Mr. Cool American with real Levis and all the good records. He went to Ealing Tech Art College, where he met Pete Townsend and they became lifelong friends,” Tony says. “Tom had walked into the lunchroom and this real shy guy was sitting alone, strumming his guitar, and all of a sudden, he went, ‘schwaaang!’ Tom said, ‘Oh my God. Do that again!’ Pete has said, ‘If it wasn’t for Tom coming into my life, there would never have been a Who.’”

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Read the Full Story at Document Journal

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Drawing of Dolly Parton © Antoinette “Tony” Sales.

Categories: 1970s, 1980s, 1990s, Art, Document Journal, Fashion, Music

Marc H. Miller & Barry Blinderman on the Explosive Rise and Inevitable Fall of the East Village Art Scene

Posted on September 26, 2019

Raymond Pettibon, A&P Gallery Closing Party, Announcement Card, 1986 – Courtesy online Gallery 98.

The late 1970s through mid-1980s in New York marked a major turning point in both the city’s political history and the art world. Fueled by the policies of the Reagan White House, money began to flood the nearly bankrupt city, heightening the stratification between the haves and have-nots, while the specter of gentrification began to sink its teeth into the downtown firmament.

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In this brief window, the last vestiges of bohemian life staked their claim in the outposts of the East Village and the Lower East Side, where a new anti-authoritarian art scene emerged. With the launch of galleries like FUN, Gracie Mansion, ABC No Rio, and Civilian Warfare, the downtown scene was primed for new talents like Jean-Michel Basquiat, Keith Haring, and David Wojnarowicz that would take the world by storm.

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In an exclusive conversation with Document Journal, journalist and archivist Marc H. Miller and art historian and Semaphore gallerist Barry Blinderman discuss this pivotal era of New York City history, spotlighting how artists and galleries used work as a call to action, rather than a commodity for status and profit. Yet the scene’s explosion would ultimately cause its downfall, as efforts to label and package that which defied the system would crash and burn. Today, while countless East Village storefronts sit empty because small businesses cannot afford the rent, we look back at a time when the neighborhood was a playground for anyone who dared to follow their dreams.

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Read the Full Story at Document Journal

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Tom Warren, Portrait Studio: No Rio Locals, Photo Composite, 1981 – Courtesy online Gallery 98.​

Categories: 1970s, 1980s, Art, Document Journal, Manhattan, Painting, Photography

Women War Photographers: From Lee Miller to Anja Neidringhaus

Posted on September 26, 2019

Photo: © Gerda Taro, “Republican Militiawoman training on the beach outside Barcelona, Spain, August 1936”. © International Center of Photography,

The most famous images of war are largely shot by men: images of stoicism, heroicism, drama, and tragedy often focusing on the male participants. Over the past century, while women war photographers have slowly made their mark, they have not been outwardly recognized for their efforts until now.

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In Women War Photographers: From Lee Miller to Anja Neidringhaus (September 2019, Prestel), editors Anne-Marie Beckmann and Felicity Korn showcase the contributions of eight women who have risked their lives to get the picture.

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Published in conjunction with an exhibition of the same name originating at Kunstpalast in Germany, the book features the work of Gerda Taro, Lee Miller, Catherine Leroy, Susan Meiselas, Carolyn Cole, Françoise Demulder, Christine Spengler, and Anja Niedringhaus.

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Read the Full Story at The Luupe

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© Susan Meiselas / Magnum. “Searching everyone traveling by car, truck, bus or foot, Ciudad Sandino, Nicaragua, 1978.”

Categories: 1960s, 1970s, 1980s, 1990s, Art, Books, Photography, Women

Arlene Gottfried: After Dark

Posted on September 15, 2019

Arlene Gottfried. Teatro Puerto Rico, c. 1980.

When Arlene Gottfried passed in 2017, the world took note as The New York Times ran one of her photographs on the front page of the Saturday edition and a full-page obituary inside. After a lifetime of picture making, it was a fitting tribute to the artist who had gone largely unheralded in her own lifetime.

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But Gottfired did not travail in obscurity. The author of five monographs, Gottfried’s spent her sunset years basking in the critical glow of two well-received exhibitions, Sometimes Overwhelming (2014) and Bacalaitos and Fireworks (2016), thanks to the work of New York gallerist Daniel Cooney.

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On September 13, Cooney will present Arlene Gottfried: After Dark, a selection of black and white photographs made on the streets, in the nightclubs, dive bars, back alleys, and drug dens of New York in the 1980s. Gottfried’s portraits reveal a profound sense of beauty made with exquisite sensitivity and care to the impact of poverty, addiction, and crime on people plagued by the effects of systemic oppression, generation after generation.

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Read the Full Story at Dazed

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Arlene Gottfried. Studio 54, 1979.

Arlene Gottfried. Empire Rollerdrome, c. 1980.

Categories: 1970s, 1980s, Art, Brooklyn, Dazed, Exhibitions, Manhattan, Photography

Out of the Shadows — Marcus Leatherdale: Photographs New York City 1980-1992

Posted on August 29, 2019

Marcus Leatherdale. Larissa, Issey Miyake, 1983.

Hailing from Montreal, photographer Marcus Leatherdale remembers paging through Interview magazine and coming upon a photograph that spoke to his soul. “The picture of Edwige with blonde hair sitting on a couch was the epitome of where and what I wanted to be and do in New York,” he says.

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In spring 1978, Leatherdale, then 25 years old, finally arrived in New York after completing his photographic training at the San Francisco Art Institute. Though SFAI didn’t focus on studio photography at the time, the young punk was determined to pursue his dream, beginning his practice by placing people in front of walls to simulate a controlled environment.

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“I didn’t realize I was archiving an era that was going to be extinct; I was just photographing my friends,” Leatherdale says, reflecting on the release of his magnificent monograph, Out of the Shadows—Marcus Leatherdale: Photographs New York City 1980-1992. Leatherdale’s timeless black and white portraits of icons including Robert Mapplethorpe, Andy Warhol, Madonna, Iman, Suzanne Bartsch, Debbie Harry, Joey Arias, and Kathy Acker offer an elegiac epitaph to Downtown at its height.

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Read the Full Story at Document Journal

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Marcus Leatherdale. Tina Chow, Issey Miyake, 1983.

Categories: 1980s, 1990s, Art, Books, Manhattan, Photography

Michele Saunders Old School Rules for Nightclubbing

Posted on August 22, 2019

© Michele Saunders

“My life lead me to the Garage,” Michele Saunders tells Document Journal. Growing up in France, her father would play jazz records, nurturing a lifelong passion for music that took shape when she moved to America to attend Mount Holyoke College in Massachusetts. On Wednesday nights, she’d road trip down to New York to catch the world famous Amateur Night at the Apollo Theater in Harlem.

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In 1979, she met her soon-to-be husband Andre Saunders, who was producing Billy Nichols’s disco classic, “Give Your Body Up to the Music,” mixed by Larry Levan, resident DJ at the Paradise Garage. Andre invited her to see Nichols perform—an experience that would change her life.

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“The very first time I went, I was backstage, dressed in a Norma Kamali outfit with high heels and a fur coat,” Saunders recalls. “I was like, ‘Oh my God! I am going to be back next week by myself, no husband, no high heels, no fur coat. This is where my new home is going to be.’”

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Read the Full Story at Document Journal

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© Michele Saunders

Categories: 1980s, Document Journal, Manhattan, Music, Photography

Michele Saunders & Tina Paul: The Last Nights at Paradise Garage

Posted on August 19, 2019

Michele Saunders. All photography © Tina Paul, 1987. All rights reserved.

Keith Haring, LA2, and Lysa Cooper. All photographs from the closing party of Paradise Garage. New York, September 26, 1987. All photography © Tina Paul, 1987. All rights reserved.

From 1977 to 1987, Paradise Garage reigned supreme over New York’s downtown nightclub scene. Located at 84 King Street, the Garage was home base for resident DJ Larry Levan (1954-1992), whose signature style of dance music became the definitive sound of New York—popularized by West End Records founder Mel Cheren (1933-2007), who financially backed the club.

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Over a customized sound system designed by Richard Long, Levan would weave spellbinding tapestries of house, disco, rock, and pop tracks that kept revelers coming back for more. The Garage regularly hosted live performances by the hottest artists of the era, featuring everyone from Grace Jones to Whitney Houston, Sylvester to Divine, Klaus Nomi to New Order, Gwen Guthrie to The Clash.

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Modeled on David Mancuso’s legendary invitation-only parties at The Loft, where no liquor was served, the Garage was a members-only club that curated its attendees as carefully as Levan selected his records. The three decades after the club closed, it remains an icon of New York’s nightlife hey-day, living on as the annual Paradise Garage Reunion, to be held this August 30 and 31 at Elsewhere in Brooklyn. In advance of the festivities, Garage members Michele Saunders and Tina Paul look back at the last weekend at the legendary club.

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Read the Full Story at Document Journal

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Walter, Gilbert, and Henry on the roof deck. All photography © Tina Paul, 1987. All rights reserved.

Garage Kids. Daryl, Richie Mercado, Leslie Macayza, Judi MeMuro, Duglas Coleman, and John Howard. All photography © Tina Paul, 1987. All rights reserved.

Categories: 1980s, Document Journal, Manhattan, Music, Photography

The Life and Times of Alvin Baltrop

Posted on August 8, 2019

Alvin Baltrop. The Piers (male couple), n.d. (1975-1986)

In the brief window between the Stonewall Rebellion and the advent of AIDS, New York City became a wonderland for the sexually adventurous. As the city teetered on the brink of bankruptcy, the spirit of anarchy arose among the dilapidated ruins of the bustling metropolis. Raised on free love, a new gay underground emerged in the bars and clubs, as well as on Manhattan’s West Side Piers where encounters with rough trade in derelict warehouses flourished in broad daylight.

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From 1975 to 1986, African-American artist and Bronx native Alvin Baltrop (1948-2004) dedicated his life to documenting this little-known chapter of gay history, amassing a singular archive of work that preserves the era perfectly. At a time when the nearby Meatpacking District still ran red with fresh blood, Baltrop captured the grit, grime, and humanity that thrived in an enclave of illicit pleasures of the flesh.

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Largely excluded from the art world during his life, Baltrop is finally receiving his due with a major exhibition, The Life and Times of Alvin Baltrop, opening August 7 at the Bronx Museum of the Arts. The museum is home to the Baltrop Archive, a trove of personal documents, photographs, and ephemera that provides a first-hand account of the challenges he faced throughout his life.

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Read the Full Story at Feature Shoot

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Alvin Baltrop. The Piers (male portrait), n.d. (1975-1986)

 

Bottom: Alvin Baltrop. The Piers (sunbathing platform with Tava mural), n.d.​ ​(1975-1986)

Categories: 1970s, 1980s, Art, Books, Document Journal, Exhibitions, Manhattan, Photography

April Dawn Alison

Posted on August 8, 2019

© April Dawn Alison, Untitled, n.d.; San Francisco Museum of Modern art, gift of Andrew Masullo. Courtesy of SFMOMA and MACK

“Everyone has three lives: a public life, a private life and a secret life,” the novelist Gabriel Garcia Marquez knowingly remarked, reminding us that what we see and what we believe is often just an illusion of sorts. Beneath it all, lays the true self, an identity we often keep hidden from the world — including ourselves.

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But there are those who dare to delve into the person they are we no one else is there to witness it. These moments are a manifestation of something beyond the person others see: it is the self that exists within our deepest being. To record this, to document it, to create evidence of that which exists for no one else — this takes nerve. It is here our story of April Dawn Alison begins.

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In 2017, a painter named Andrew Masulio donated an archive of over 8,000 Polaroids to the San Francisco Museum of Modern Art (SFMOMA) — previously unseen self-portraits of April Dawn Alison, the female persona of Alan Schaefer (1941-2008), an Oakland-based photographer who lived in the world as a man. The archive reveals to us a fully-realized secret life beautifully revealed in the exquisite monograph, April Dawn Alison (MACK), selections from which are currently on view at SFMOMA through December 1, 2019.

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© April Dawn Alison, Untitled, n.d.; San Francisco Museum of Modern art, gift of Andrew Masullo. Courtesy of SFMOMA and MACK

Categories: 1960s, 1970s, 1980s, 1990s, Art, Books, Exhibitions, Feature Shoot, Photography, Women

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